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Ancient Town

A gentle breeze coming in off the sea, welcomely wafts down old town alleyways. It is midday and, in the short shadows of unprepossessing façades passers-by are rare. The stone benches in front of patrician houses are deserted and richly-carved portals closed. A scrawny, alleyway cat disappears into the half-shadow of a porch. These cities are dead. And yet they are the largest Swahili settlements and the rare trading cities which have preserved their 18th and 19th Century old towns practically intact.The buildings and gardens in the old city

of Mombasa tell of a legacy of conquest and battle for control over the trade ways and caravan routes that led from the hinterland of the African continent to Arabia, India and beyond. Although old city was first mentioned by the Arab traveller Al Idrisi in 1154, the area’s prosperity peaked in the 15th century when it competed with Swahili city-states including Kilwa Kisiwani to the south for dominance over Indian Ocean trade.

Evolution along the coast followed a different path beyond the high plateaus ill-suited for agriculture. For Arab sailors the coast was Bilad al-Zanj –Black Land- origin of the name of Zanzibar. From the 7th Century onwards, Islam flooded the coastal settlements. Following the footsteps of a few Shiite émigrés, 8th Century merchant rolled in from the Arabian peninsula and Persia and, respectful of the tradition of ancient navigators, they settled on offshore islands or peninsulas with protected ports. Located in the archipelago of Lamu, Manda is reputed to be the oldest, archeologically settlement known today. At the beginning of the 10th Century, Mogadiscio was founded, followed by Lamu, Mombasa and Malindi together with countless berthing points of lesser importance.

Between 1499 and 1698, Portuguese expansion cast a shadow over the Swahili star. In 1497, Vasco de Gama rounded the Cape of Good Hope, thus opening the sea route to the Indian continent for the Portuguese who, killing two birds with one stone progressively yoked the East African coast. The new military stranglehold stifled coast economy. Numerous Swahili abandoned wane-towns. Backed-up by the Oman Sultanate, resistance to Portuguese occupation was fierce, to such an extent that, after two centuries of finally fruitless domination, the Portuguese decided to call it a day. Several dynasties from Oman succeeded at the head of the region until the arrival of the British. The incumbent governors usually left wide autonomy for merchant cities who skilfully managed to preserve privileged positions. From 1840 onwards, the major trade routes turned about and political power pushed into Zanzibar. An independent Sultanate, Zanzibar became a turntable for black slave trade and unavoidable base for explorers who, from the east coast, were intent on venturing inland. Such expeditions, led by Burton, Stanley, Livingstone… also represent the first shadow cast by Europe’s nascent colonial appetite.

Bibliography

Africa Africa
Michael Martin, Katja Kreder, Daniela Schetar
Vilo Publishing, Paris 2000

Swahili Style
Javed Jafferji and Elie Losleben
Gallery Publications, 2005